Bongkst mesin veaspa

	now that you have drained the oil and removed the motor from the scooter its time to tear it down. A engine stand and bench vice will make you life alot easier I will spin it around to show you how cool this engine stand is and how much access it gives you
	Lets begin Start by removing the forked spark plug clip
	unclip the high tension coil wire
	remove the bottom screw from the flywheel cover and cylinder shroud
	remove the bolt from the cylinder shroud
	remove it
	pull the spark plug and throw it away
	remove the spacer nut
	remove the 4 nuts that hold the head in place
	you should have a nut flat washer lock washer
	now you can remove the head
	next the cylinder
	check the piston for scoring, cracks, etc..
	remove the cir clips that hold the wrist pin in place
	they may look like this or you may need special cir clip pliers to remove them
	use the special wrist pin punch
	to push the wrist pin out
	remove the small needle bearing
	remove the base gasket (replace it)
	remove the rest of the screws that hold the flywheel cover on
	remove the flywheel cover
	remove the rubber plug you can pry it out with a screwdriver
	this is an access hole got points adjustment
	use a flywheel holder to be able to loosen the flywheel nut
	this method works if you do not have an impact strike the end of the ratchet with a hammer it works quite well
	behind the nut there is a star washer
	use the flywheel puller some Vespa scooters have a cir clip that acts as the puller back the bolt all the way out
	insert the puller and tighten it all the way
	hold the puller and tighten the bolt
	the flywheel will come right off
	inspect the woodruff key for damage also be careful it doesn't fall out (its pretty small)
	if the flywheel was ever too loose this will be damaged and will need to be replaced
	disconnect the coil wire
	remove the junction box it can be pried up with a screwdriver
	it is a good idea to mark the position of the stator before you remove it. 3 screws hold it in place remove all of them
	you should have a flat and wavy washer
	pull the stator off
	feed the wires down through the case inspect them for brittle wires or if the copper is green replace them
	we are getting there
	remove the carb box top screws
	there are 2 of them
	This is what they look like
	remove the carb box top
	remove the rubber gasket from the top of the box
	unscrew the air filter screws
	they are different S 14743 this is the back one S 14436 this is the front one
	remove the air cleaner
	remove the carb bolts 11mm socket there are 2 of them and they have a flat washer and lock washer
	see
	remove the carburetor I usually leave the bolts and washers in the carb body its less stuff to lose
	remove the gasket with a pick tool or just rip it because you will replace it
	remove the screw that is under the gasket this holds the carb box on
	the carb box will now lift off
	remove the gasket under the box and replace it
	spin the motor to get access to the rear wheel
	remove the cap you can pry it off with a screwdriver
	pull the cotter pin out with pliers bend the ears straight
	pull it out
	use a 22mm socket to remove the castle nut
	there is a washer behind the nut
	now you can remove the hun it should just slide right off
	remove the clips on the brake shoe post a pair of needle nose pliers work well
	after you remove both of the clips push the brake lever as if you were stepping on the pedal
	this will allow you to stick a pry par or screwdriver under the brake shoe between the pin and the shoe
	now get another pry bar and ply like so the brake shoe will come right off
	this is what you should have
	remove the 3 screws that hold the back plate
	Remove the back plate
	There are 4 rubber O-Rings behind it Remove them with a small pick tool
	This is what you should have
	Next pry out the Rear Hub Seal
	Remove the 3 screws that hold the Clutch Cover they are 6mm and you use a 10mm socket
	You should have 1 6mm Lock and 1 6mm Flat washer
	Remove the cover
	remove and replace the O-ring off the cover
	with a small pick tool remove the pressure plate pull down on the retaining clip
	then pull out like this
	You will notice the tab washer has one of the tabs bent into the castle nut bend it out so you can remove the nut.
	replace one of the clutch cover bolts
	insert the clutch holding tool (like so you will do it opposite to install the nut)
	Use the clutch nut removal tool to remove the nut
	it takes a 17mm socket or wrench
	after you remove the nut use 2 prybars or 2 large screwdrivers to help pry the clutch off it should not take too much force (don't damage the case)
	you can remove it the rest of the way by hand
	pull out the washer and replace it
	remove the spacer from behind the clutch and remove the woodruff key
	this is what you should have
	spin the motor around to the front side remove the coil bracket using a philips srewdriver and an 8mm wrench there are 2 of them
	remove the coil you shouldn't replace it if it is working but its not a bad idea to carry an extra one (generally they work or they don't)
	now move on to the selector box remove the 2 7mm nuts with a 11mm socket
	you should have 2 nuts, 2 flat washers, and 2 split washers
	once you have the nuts removed put a screwdriver in the pinch bolt area spin it down as if you were changing gears
	it will come off like so you can pull it off the rest of the way by hand
	remove and replace the gasket (it comes in your gasket set)
	now you can begin removing the case bolts there are 8 bolts one of them is longer than the others (its the one that the cable holder is attached to) you will probably not be able to get the longer one out. you can just remove the nut and washers and leave it in the case half behind where the stator was there are 4 studs the you will have to remove the nuts from as well
	the bottom bolt is backwards and the nut is on the other side
	after you remove all 12 nuts and washers you can split the case halfs this tab can be used to force them apartif you dont have the Case Seperator Tool
	use a punch and tap the bottom apart (gently)
	once it seperated a little use the rubber mallet and tap the top repeat the procedure on the bottom then top, working the halfs apart a little at a time. the kick start gear and spring will probable fall out, just make sure you find them.
	if you have the Case Seperator Tool it will be ALOT easier and there is less chance you will screw up the case
	start by backing out the large bolt on the puller all the way
	using the thumb screws provided thread them into the holes that hold teh flywheel cover in place
	there are 3 of them thighen all of them as tight as you can get them by hand
	now slowly tighten the bolt
	the case will begin to seperate after a few more turns you will be able to seperate it by hand
	if the kick start gear spring didn't fall out remove it
	remove the case gasket and don't even think of reusing it
	a good way to remove the rear axle is to thread the castle nut on backwards
	tap it with a hammer
	once you knock it free you can remove it by hand
	spin the motor and bend the Tab Washer so you can take the nut off
	remove the nut
	you cna buy a Kit to replace everything (since you are bending the tab washer its a good idea to replace it)
	to remove the Cush Drive just push the end you just took the nut off. with your other hand hold a rag to catch the Needle Bearings
	dont lose these guys
	simply pull the shaft out
	and pull the Cush Drive out HERE are some instructions on how to Rebuild it
	I usally don't remove the Oil Sling unless Im gonna sand blast the case but if you do DON'T FORGET TO PUT IT BACK IT. When you have to motor put back together and you see it in you parts bowl or whatever you use to store your parts you will be pissed
	to remove the crank you can do the same method as removing the rear axle by putting the clutch nut on backwards
	another way is to use a pointed puch
	set it into the recess in the crank and tap a tap a tap a
	you can finish it off with the rubber mallet
	pop the Clutch Side Seal out with a screwdriver and REPLACE IT
	remove the large CirClip that holds the Main Bearing
	to remove the beaing you will need the Bearing Tool
	insert the shaft into the canter of the Bearing from the Clutch side
	insert the pin in to other side of the tool
	put the cup piece on and thred the nut on
	just make it snug
	insert the bolt in the shaft to tighten it on the bearing
	now tighten the large nut while holding the shat from turning
	the bearing will come right out You can also tap it out with a large socket (but be careful)
	now remove the Rear Hub Bearing start by removing the circlip
	from the inside punch it out you can use a long socket extension or a long punch
	it will come right out
	next remove the Brake Arm and Cam the only reason to remove this is to replace the 2 rubber o-rings on the Cam
	let the tension off the arm by removing the spring from it
	pull out the cotter pin
	Slide out the Cam
	here are the O-Rings (they are in the Gasket Set)
	now remove the Kick Start Quadrent
	just tap it with the rubber mallet catch them on the other side
	the Quadrent and Spring will come out at the same time there is an O-ring inside the case you should replace (it can be a cause of an oil leak)
	remove and throw away the KickStart Buffers
	same goes for the FlyWheel Side Seal
	use the Bearing Extractor to remove the FlyWheel Side Bearing
	use the same procedure as above
	remove the Output Shaft Bearing
	the best way I came up with was to tap it out with a small aluminum punch you will have to replace if if you do it this way
	if you are reusing the Crankshaft you will have to remove the half of the FlySide Bearing that stay on the Crank
	you can cut it off (not reccomended) or use this Puller
	this lip goes under the Bearing
	like so
	insert the Crank Wedge (or a wooden wedge)
	insert the puller with the collar all the way up
	gently tap it down until it bottoms out
	hold the tool with a wrench and twist clockwise by hand